Good News

Updated: Ben is recovering from HAPE: High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. He is receiving medical at an altitude of 2,000 feet and expecting to make a full recovery. 

Everyone is alive!

We've learned that all five kayakers were airlifted to the city of Dushanbe. One member of the team, Ben Luck, has sustained non-life threatening injuries, primarily hypothermia and HAPE.

The remaining four boys, including Charles and Cooper, are continuing on with their river mission.

Sending positive thoughts to Ben, but otherwise we're a wreck of happy tears and relief over here.


update on the kayakers

I know there are a lot of people thinking of nothing but the boys in Tajikistan. Please understand that I am getting my information from a multitude of people, but obviously everything that comes in is second hand and I have no way to verify it.

The original SPOT emergency signal was sent off on 9/30 from within a mountain pass in the Eastern corner of the country. A helicopter was deployed early this morning in Tajikistan, which is nine hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. The weather during the day has been nice and warm in the mid sixties.

The helicopter arrived at the scene of the original distress call and found a severely damaged kayak and a backpack. The boys and the remaining four kayaks were not there. Some time later, the boys sent out a second emergency SPOT from a location about six miles South. We could assume they figured their beacons were not working and began heading through the mountain pass towards a road.

It is a positive sign that they are hiking with their kayaks and did not decide to leave the cumbersome creek boats behind.

A group of hunters in the area are in contact with the rescue efforts and are heading towards the crew on foot.

They are now trying to get a photo of the damaged boat.

As it is currently 11pm in Tajikistan, helicopter rescue will wait until first light to make a second attempt.

Cooper's father has asked that, in order to contain and organize the rescue efforts, do NOT reach out to contacts in Tajikistan or the government, instead contact Ken Lambla directly at 704-618-2332 or Kalambla@uncc.edu

Keep sending positive thoughts to those intrepid adventure boys, we are very hopeful for a happy outcome.

Help for missing kayakers

I know this is a long shot, but connections happen quickly online.

My friends Cooper and Charles are part of a six person expedition kayak team in Eastern Tajikistan. On 9/30 they hit the emergency beacon on their SPOT GPS devices. A helicopter was supposed to begin a search mission today, but for whatever reason, it did not go out.

The state department is urging their families to spread the word in case there is someone- hiker, trekker, tourist, ambassador, visitor, state department worker involved in that area who can help organize a rescue or have knowledge of the area.

These are six STRONG and extremely accomplished and experienced paddlers. They would not send off an emergency distress call unless their situation was very bad.

Charles and Cooper are really good friends and good, good men. Thank you for passing this on.

Cooper and Charles are my good friends. I'm posting in this in response to Cooper's family's request to utilize social media to the best of our ability. Please keep these boys in your thoughts.

Kayakers need rescue!!! in Eastern Tajikistan

Cooper's family (at the recommendation of the state department) has requested this to be posted to social media in the hopes that someone may be in the area that can provide any sort of assistance (kayaker, hiker, or anyone that has any pull locally). My understanding is that a helicopter was promised today and it didn't happen. It's also been promised for tomorrow, but at least one family is afraid it won't happen.

"Can you help to send a tweet for any assistance in finding 5 kayakers (Ben Luck, Cooper Lambla, Matt Klema, Nate Klema, Charles King) in Eastern Tajikistan. Coordinates of emergency beacon are 38.83227 N, 72.860240 E

Please post to social media or share with anyone who may be in the Tajikistan region.

- via Adam Purser

All in a week

1. breakfast at Over Easy 2. first day of fall league ultimate 3. saturday bouldering 4. exploring Bent Creek with the dog 5. fireside book club with Urban Orchards cider 6. lost at Rumbling Bald 7. front porch peach pie 8. cold Rangers after mountain biking 9. the very end of the explorer's trail on a borrowed bike drinking 10. endless honey ginger and lemon concoctions....and we're still sick   

the first ride

Today I met up with a person I'd never met before, hopped on a bike that wasn't mine, and followed him through miles and miles of rooted, rocky single track that sliced and curved and climbed through the Bent Creek Wilderness.

I have not gotten my ass kicked sideways from here to hell like that in a long, long time. Years. The hills were grueling and absolutely gutted any idea I had of myself as being in shape. I mean I'm fit, but I'm not in mountain bike shape. Holy hell. We went up and up and up and up. Then came the redeeming exhilaration of the downhills, half blissful and half terrifying, jolting like pop corn over the rocks and cruising through streams with mud and water flying everywhere.
I really lucked out with my companion, who I met at the coffee shop for the first time this morning. He was soft spoken and strong, offering me nothing but encouragement although he must have had his doubts, upon seeing my saucer eyes during the first round of hills. He was a forest fire fighter and knew all about the ecology of the area, stopping every now and then to point out leaves and the bugs destroying them while I gasped for breath, grateful to be standing still.

I passed lots of other bikers, and every single one shouted something jovial to me as they sped past. "You got this girl, this is worst part!" And then they'd careen around the bend.

One month deep into this new place and the ubiquitous friendliness is still a complete novelty to me.

Late in the afternoon, we were finally back in the parking lot, sitting in the shade drinking New Belgium Rangers. "Are they cold?" I'd asked when he offered me a beer from the back of his truck. He looked at me. "Oh yeah. I don't fuck around."
As I sat there, I felt a very familiar feeling creeping into my bones- the same sensation of being in a warm car after a long, hard day of skiing, when just sitting still feels like a joyful discovery, when every little extra like beer or music feels so earned and good and right. This is the reward that follows putting your thighs through a few solid hours of screaming agony.

Afterwards, I finally got to check out the River Arts District, and sit outside drinking beer at the Wedge, eating a bucket of peanuts and watching kids play corn hole. For anyone who doesn't know- we do not have a game called 'corn hole' in the  North. We occasionally play a round of 'bean bag toss' but it's not a thing. At all.

I think today took guts. I'm trying to recognize that more because I tend to focus on all the things I fall short on. It took some guts and it payed off. I'm proud of myself for this day, and so grateful to the firefighter, and so supremely exhausted. I gotta run now and enjoy some front porch pie & piano.

photobook : north carolina mountain state fair

the other day, dave and I were talking about our secrets to a happy life. this is the type of cliche conversation I love to rope people into. I said being constantly active and always doing new and interesting things, maybe as generic as it gets but there you have it. he said something to the point of 'eating whatever i want whenever i want.'

sounds good to me.

at my insistence, we went out to the mountain state fair on a tuesday afternoon. we bought an unlimited ride pass (at 20 bucks, easily best bargain of my life so far) and decided we'd eat whatever we wanted and as much of it as we wanted. which is a risky thing at a place that serves bags of neon spun sugar and fried kool-aid.

as you can see, this place was a little bit ridiculous and a lot exuberant. we rode almost everything, ate whatever we liked (although fair food is best in theory & childhood memory, it turns out) drank lots of frozen lemonade and I didn't even puke. 

All in a week

1. our favorite ride at the Country Fair, we rode it twice 2. this was an impressive sit start  3. watching the ICF world championship of freestyle kayaking- France had the best cheering section 4. an evening of Mela, margaritas, and reading alone 5. I think this place will be perfect for after ultimate games 6. lunch date with Kristen 7. David at the fair with his rapid-ripped hands 8. running through humidity at Bent Creek with Kelli- I made us walk a lot 9. an international gentlemen's intermission at Worlds 10. jewel tones at the pie shop 11. grandmother mountain, where the whiskey flows (literally, the whole flask spilled) and the women are strong 

follow me on Instagram: @melinadream
tag your photos with #wildercoast to be featured in the All in Your Week section

Late summer inventory

I have lived in this warm, sultry, green and overgrown place for three weeks. Things are sliding into place around me; I can almost hear the faint click as things snap together, like when I figured out that I live in North Asheville, which is not obvious in this town of skewed cardinal directions and mislabeled highways, or when Erich showed me the best espresso in town, which is in West Asheville next to the Baptist church. Everything clicks during the day, my very own world building and building around me, and then at night everything settles, relaxes into itself. I'm like a ship in my bed, anchored more deeply with the end of each day, the ropes connecting me to this new corner of the country stretching and creaking, getting accustomed.   

Five years into this project of writing everything and I still have not run out of ship metaphors.

But at least I'm not writing about birds any more, to the enormous relief of myself and, I would wager a bet, anyone who reads this. When I told my old friend Ryan that I was moving, at an empty bar in Greenwood in North Seattle, I remember the way he looked at me, one eyebrow raised, arms crossed. He drank some of his beer and said, in his typical take no prisoners approach, "Why? Wherever you go, Lina, it's still going to be you."
I know what he meant, and I concede he knows me almost better than I know myself, and yet I can't help but feel that location has a lot to do with things. At least that's true with me, with my life.

It turns out, and this is not a surprise in any way, that all that frustration I felt in Seattle last spring, the irritation I could never give a name to welling up inside of me, that stuff that caused me to throw silverware and dream endlessly of birds banging into glass walls, it was all for a purpose. A sea change building momentum so quickly that it became impossible to ignore.

The other night I was chopping onions in my kitchen and my friend said, 'I'm glad that bird hit the plane.' I'm glad it did, too, and gave me one more day in Asheville. It was on that day that it became mysteriously obvious that I needed to move here.  

I'm very, very happy that I did.
Yesterday, Chelsea and I went bouldering at Grandmother Mountain near my old home of Boone. Chelsea is extremely strong and limber and good, and was able to talk me through a lot of moves I wasn't sure I'd be able to do.

The woods up there were much cooler then in town, the problems seemed endless and I spilled a whole flask of whiskey into the ground. She told me all about the nearby places to climb, the Red and the Obed and the New, newly cleaned and bolted sport crags opening up and all the traditional routes at Table Rock and the Linville.

"Around here you climb all the way though the winter," she explained. "If you don't mind the occasional iced over hold."

I don't mind the occasional ice. I thought about days on the rock in sweaters and wool hats and drinking hot coffee between problems and right now on this sweating hot September day, I can't fathom anything better.
The drive home from the boulders no longer takes me on highway 2 past the Sultan bakery or memory soaked Index; and I don't return to a bright city with perfect coffee and overpriced apartments where my best friends live, the ubiquitous traffic on 1-5 crawling past Lake Washington. 

Instead we wind down the blue ridge parkway, enveloped in green mountains, and stop at a place called Famous Louise's. The bathroom is decorated with pictures of naked children sitting on pots and praising the lord. I think the art is questionable, but I chalk it up to 'things i still don't understand about the south.' Like chiggers. I don't even know where to begin about the chiggers.

We buy slices of pie for the road- strawberry rhubarb, peach and blueberry, also a coffee that's served lukewarm in a styrofoam cup with a straw. Like a coke.

Win some, lose some I guess.
In  evening I take the what's left of the pie over to Dave's house, my hands red and throbbing from the rocks. He's banging away on the porch piano as I make my way up the wide green lawn.

That's another thing about the South- everything takes on a new significance if it's done on the front porch. On this particular evening, I have my first front porch pie, drink my first porch pale ale. He tells me about his recent run down the Green and I tell him how I finally got the heal hook move and how I desperately want to go to the Mountain State Fair over in Fletcher. He laughs. "You think you're ready for that? That's going to be some serious Western North Carolina craziness."

Exactly.
Every night before I fall asleep, with the riggers and the ropes creaking away, I think about all the new things I have. My inventory. Tonight I have a climbing partner and a running partner, a roommate who says he loves me every time I make him laugh, someone who will join me at a cafe to work during the week, a working car and torn up finger tips, a new bar in west asheville that grates fresh ginger into their liquor drinks and a good job.

We all know that life spins constantly, cranking up and down, birds and boats and black sand, so I hope you'll bear with me as I record every single thing that happens right now, an early autumn still disguised as summer when life feels so new and fresh and playful.

all in a week & all in your week

1. Jason Craig showing me the boulders at the Nantahala Gorge 2. traveling again 3. dave in flight at the Linville 4. my second week of silks 5. Dane Jackson wandering through rocks 6. the iced lattes at Waking Life are shaken, not stirred 7. tuesday night girls grill-out 8. Kristen showing me the neighborhoods 9. worked all day on this one problem, didn't get it 10. Erich and a copper ale on a rainy night 
***
All in Your Week

I asked you on Instagram to label your favorite summer adventure photos with the hashtag #wildercoast. Here are some of my favorites from the last few weeks. I'm excited to see your colorful autumn adventures, so keep getting after it, and keep tagging your photos. 

wild roads and feather burns

It's bucketing rain as we climb the narrow trail out of the Linville Gorge. I haven't been in rain like this for years- hard, drenching, turning the trail into a running river. We've been jumping off of boulders into the swimming hole all day, we're already soaked, now the rain just feels warm.
When the lightning comes, Erich and I start talking back and forth about reverse triage and if the heart would really spontaneously re-start after a lighting strike. I am thinking about feather burns and my friend Connor getting struck and thrown against a rock wall as the storm gets closer and closer, or more like the storm has always been there, and we are getting closer to it as we climb higher up the ridge.

Thunder is cracking above us and echoing through the gorge, the flashes of light coming in faster intervals. Finally Dave shouts that we can hike along and talk about lighting death all we want but he's running for it. So we all start running, sloshing through the shin deep water until we're out of the forest and we make a running dive into the car. The road is washed out and gutted with potholes, the wheels spit gravel and grind.
Wild boys on wild roads that lead to wild places. We hiked up the river to a deep, cool spot where no one could find us.
Two weeks deep into my life in Asheville. If you could see the sadness over leaving Washington it might look like faint, feathery red patterns over my skin, but the heart, old soldier, didn't take long to start up again.

Now I live in North Carolina

Let me start with my room at Yonton's house. Where it's always cool, and it's always quiet. A ceiling fan whirs around and gives me something to look at as I'm falling asleep. There are two windows, one smaller than the other, and through them streams the sound of crickets, or cicadas, some sort of soothing insect that sounds like New England. I fall asleep so quickly and sleep so deeply it's as if I pull blankets of water over myself each night.

The last place I lived in Seattle, by contrast, was a cacophony by sunset. The apartment was across the alleyway from a tap dance studio, a country karaoke bar, and a massive construction project that never failed to violate noise ordinances. The downstairs neighbors fought constantly, while the neighbors to my left and my right were always shouting back and forth about the mundane pieces of their day- their shopping lists, what the doctor said at the appointment.

It was a strange place to live, it may have been some type of halfway situation, but I'll never know for sure. I slept each night in a tight crescent, curled around a tiny fan that gave off a hum of white noise and at least the suggestion of air movement, enough to make sleep just possible in that sweltering place.

It was an ideal place from which to leave.

When I first got to Asheville after eight days on the road, we set off fireworks and ran into town for dinner. The next night there was a full moon. We went to a bar that was set up in a burned out mechanic shop. It was roofless, so the moonlight could come in. We danced on the fringe of a crowded dance floor until long past midnight. I was crazy about it- the new town, the warm night, the old friends. And I still am crazy about it.

At one point during that night, my friends needed more cheap beer- it's 1 dollar on tuesdays, so I went up and tried to order four Rainiers. The bartender couldn't understand me, he kept shouting 'what?!' and leaning closer, and I kept repeating myself, louder and louder until suddenly it dawned on me that they may not drink shitty Seattle beers over here. In North Carolina.

That was one moment when I realized where I was, or more to the point, where I wasn't. Most of the time I walk around lightly confused, cheerfully disoriented, wondering where I live and where I lived and what I could claim as my own.
I do love the nights sleeping in my room at Yonton's because it is so cool and quiet. But sometimes the evenings stretch on and on, and I've already wrapped up my day, there isn't much left to do. When I first arrived, there was the fireworks and the dancing and the dinner, but the days keep waning and waxing on, and I'm often alone through them.  I don't know many people yet, and although I have friendships here, I'm being careful not to wear them too thin too quickly.

And so on those nights I put myself to bed at 8:30, why not, and watch the ceiling fan spin. I don't feel sorry for myself, or at least I try not to.  I remind myself that this is what happens when you do something like move to a new place. It's going to look like this for a while- quiet dinner, crickets, ceiling fan. "What did you think it was going to be like?" I might ask myself out loud, and my voice startles me inside all that quiet.
Then Yonton comes home and bangs around and knocks on my door.  He switches on a light and asks, "Where are you? What are you doing?" He is genuinely confused. He says, "Come out and talk to me and hang out!" And I know what he's thinking- Come be a real person. Do not be in bed before nine!

So I shuffle into the kitchen in my pajamas, and sit across from him at the table. He cooks plenty of clear soups and brown rice which he shares with me.  He tells me about his work day, or his training for the freestyle kayaking world championships, which are coming up next week. Then I tell him about my day, how I went hiking or bouldering or worked all day.

Sometimes I leave out that I got terrifically lost on the blue ridge parkway and spent most of the day driving in circles, or how the climbing season hasn't really started so I was the only one at the spot today. Other times, I just tell him everything.

Once, a few years ago, I lived alone in Vermont during an exceptionally cold autumn.  On certain evenings, Yonton would read books to me over the phone. I'd sit on the rocking chair next to the wood stove, wrapping the chord around and around my wrist as I listened. Helprin, Keret, Murakami.

You keep a nice space in your memory for someone like that.

Now, whenever something good happens during the day, my first thought is to run home and report it. "I talked to someone at the climbing gym today!" I'll say with great pride. "I went to my first aerial class!" "Guess what- I have breakfast plans!" He always matches my enthusiasm about these things. "Good for you!" he'll say. "Great job!"

So I do walk around a little confused these days, stunned might be a more accurate word, not only because I recently left my whole world behind me, but because I can't believe my good fortune, to be living here now, this town just beginning to crack open, this new place that I love so much.

all in a (first) week

1. the dog's first encounter with a butterfly 2. the new gym is quiet 3. french 76's at Imperial Life 4. bouldering at Rumbling Bald 5. breakfast downtown 6. Kristen gets...low? 7. a wall in my old home of fayetteville, WV 8. the mountains to sea trail 9. spending lots of time with her 10. first day of Aerial arts 11. Yonton welcomes me to Asheville 

Lolo

It's raining in Asheville, with a heavy breeze blowing through the open window into the kitchen where I'm sitting. About 2,000 miles to the West- that's approximately four days of driving- wildfires are burning out of control in the Lolo wilderness, just outside of Missoula.

I was in Missoula just last week- in fact, I spent a day with Nici and the girls in the Lolo hot springs. Before the fire erupted it was just another warm summer day, arid but calm; we played and swam for hours and I took a lot of pictures of the girls as they floated about in a nearly hypnotic state of bliss, the kind reserved for little kids on summer break.
I experienced a little bit of that bliss myself, when I drove down from Whitefish after weeks of nonstop work, packing and logistics and loud, sleepless nights in a tiny apartment across the street from an all night karaoke bar, and finally landed in Nici's kitchen. There were kids running in and out, chickens occasionally strutting through, and, as always when I'm in that kitchen, a chilled martini in my hand.

"So," asked Andy, coming in from the back porch and taking a seat next to me. "How long are you staying for?"

I'm completely guilty of this- showing up at friend's houses with two hours warning, hauling a huge backpack with no set in stone plan of departure. This family, in the midst of their own swirl of summer trips, just seem to roll with it.

"I don't know," I said, leaning back and adopting Andy's placid demeanor. "Probably just a few weeks."

"That's cool," he responded, "the guest room is all yours."

I was kidding, of course, but in that minute I actually considered it. Half an hour later, their friends came over for dinner, streaming through the door hauling ice cream and wine and a watermelon. With her typical, unbridled enthusiasm, Caroline tried to convince me to rent their spare apartment- "Cheap, gorgeous, pet friendly! Why not!"

And why not?  I didn't say anything, but instead sunk deep into that moment, the untethered existence I'd brought about by dropping all my things off at Goodwill, kissing my best friends goodbye and just leaving.

I could. I could live in Missoula for a few weeks, or months, or the rest of my life, why not? I loved Missoula. I loved this evening, all of us around the table, these families I'd once known only through writing and photos.

A pretty, curly haired woman wrote a blog that I started reading years ago, when I was worked as a nanny in Seattle. When the perpetually cantankerous three year old slept, I'd lie on the living room floor, bored and agitated with my own life, and sink into the world of this woman in Montana with the toddler and the blue eyed baby, the big garden and the art gallery.

Now I'm sitting at their table, and the garden is even bigger than it was, the toddler and the baby are little kids running around, begging their mom to let them jump in bed with me at 6am. And now, over rounds of dangerously delicious homemade margaritas, they're inviting me to move next door.

And I could. I can't get over how funny life is.
Still, it's Asheville that pulls at me, like an undertow across the Midwest. It's been Asheville for so long now. I'm so curious to see what in that rainy Southeast town has been so insistent.

***
The next morning, I woke up in pink flowered sheets with two girls sneaking in. I put an arm around each one and sighed back to sleep. For a little while, they were content just to whisper into the dog's huge ears. I was grateful, as last night's margaritas had turned to beer, had turned to tea and telling stories on the couch that crept farther into the night than anyone had intended.
When I finally hauled myself out of the bed and into the kitchen, Nici spun around and put a mug of espresso in my hand. She sewed a while in her studio while the girls and I read books outside and ran up and down the hill before setting off for the Lolo wilderness.

***
I didn't stay for weeks, of course. Just a couple of days. Not long enough, but we all had things to do. I could always go back, it's mostly just one long stretch of 1-90 that separates me from Montana. I'd live there, I really would. But only if I ever wanted to leave Asheville, and only if the wildfires ever get tired of burning the world and extinguish themselves.


All in a (transient) week

1. peach pie in the Amish Country of Shipshewana, Indiana 2. south dakota green 3. nici soaking in the lolo hotsprings 4. the dog gets her first taste of highway freedom 5.homemade margaritas in Missoula 6. this is mostly what my week looked like 7. Margot upside down 8. this boy takes his Gentlemen's intermission in Morgantown, West Virginia 9. Bright Butte 10. Seth bouldering at Cooper's rock 11. the loneliest laundromat of all times in South Dakota 

If you like the all in a week photos, follow me on instagram @melinadream.

My dog is a road baby

Today we crushed through the last bits of South Dakota and then onto Minnesota and roly poly Wisconsin. Illinois snuck up without so much as a welcome sign, just bam! there we were, racing the L train through Chicago, and we veered left and right and payed an indecent amount in tolls, until finally we drifted into Indiana,  where we've decided to spend the night.

The dog has become a true road warrior. Today I recounted to her the states she's already been to in her young life. She's set paw in all of New England, all of the Northwest, all of the Southeast with the exception of Louisiana, and all the states in between. The only territory she has yet to explore is the Southwest, and I contend that without the luxury of removing her fur coat, she would be wise to avoid that area of the country until a terrifying and monumental shift in climate. Which may occur during her lifespan.

She listened attentively, sitting quietly upright in the passenger seat, turning her gaze between me and the road, as she does all day long.
I've been nothing but happy and relaxed these past five days, watching the states melt away, without so much of a moment of trepidation about my jolting decision to turn myself lose. Until I reached Chicago, and as foreign cities always do, the cold halogen glow of that sprawling, unfamiliar place sent a gloom of homesickness over the car. (This has nothing to do with Chicago, which is a bright, vivacious, eclectic city, the hometown of many of my friends and also the place where Amy Poehler and Tina Fey cut their comedic teeth, it's just that all cities that I pass through at night fill me with a terrible loneliness, and in a way it just makes sense.)

What really struck me though, was how I did not feel homesick for Seattle. Instead, I felt an overwhelming desire for Asheville, a place where I've never lived before.  

I have three friends in Asheville, and as I finally untangled myself from the net of highways running through Chicago, one of those friends called me. "Hey," said Kristen, "I'm on a road trip, and you're on a road trip, and I figured I'd call you and we could keep each other awake!"

It was the best possible moment for her to call. The sadness lifted, every minute bringing us closer to home, and then we were deep in Indiana and my road baby and I decided to pull off and find someplace where we could sleep.

our country, super great

I'm still in South Dakota tonight, driving through a hazy August darkness punctuated every few miles by the light of small fires burning in the crop fields and the glowing yellow dots of doublewides and farmhouses. Terrifying militia men wait for me around every bend of the road, hunkered down in their pick up trucks. They are going to spot me and chase me, run me off the road and take me back to their stock-piled cabins to wait for the end of days.

Lucky for me, the endless stretch of 1-90 through South Dakota has no bends, so there's nothing to worry about.

If you've recently consulted a map and are wondering why I'm still in the same state as I was yesterday, it's because we took a long-ish detour to Mount Rushmore. Was it worth it? I got this photo:

...and for the first time, I truly understand the sentiment of this statement:

"To live in a country where you can take an ugly old mountain and put faces on it, faces of great Americans who did so much to make our country super great, well, that makes me.....proud to be an American." *

If you can guess what gem of modern cinema this comes from, then we're bound to be the closest of friends one day soon. Until that day I remain very much on my own, with the notable exception of the dog, travelling across the United States, searching for meaning, juice, and water slides.

(This post is dedicated to Colleen Murphy.)

*and in response to the emails I've already gotten regarding the sordid and controversial history of Mount Rushmore, this is an extremely sarcastic quote from an extremely sardonic movie.

militia, tornado, antler, child

So now I'm writing from Belle Fourche, South Dakota, only I'm not really writing, I'm more just telling my mother I'm alive.

So if you are my mother you can stop reading now and continue on with your day.
For the rest of you, I want to tell you that I chose to drive the long, empty swath of the North Cheyenne Reservation long after dark, and decided in retrospect it may not have been the most relaxing choice. Bucks with enormous antlers roamed the sides of the road, hundreds of them. They looked slowly up as I passed, so close to my side mirrors that I could see their big lips moving up and down as they chewed. The look on their faces was that of such strong indifference it seemed almost aggressive, although that is a linguistic impossibility.

My fears for this particular route could so far be summed up like this: militia men, militia men, militia men, tornadoes, tornadoes, tornadoes, and certain neighborhoods of Chicago. I'd like to update that compendium to include a curious or perhaps nefarious deer in Wyoming that extends its hoof into the highway, causing a bloody derailment and my swift but agonizing death by antler bone right through the coronary artery.
Also, mysterious night children.

Because as I was thinking about the deer and the antler in the heart, I passed a row of police cars on the shoulder with their lights flashing red and blue and a mob of children, all without shirts, running up the road at full speed, pairs and pairs of brown legs flashing by as I slowed to a reluctant crawl.

Between that and the antlers and the heat lighting shimmering around us in all directions I decided that my parents were right and I should have stopped for the night at a decent hour.

But with no choice now, no gas or hotel, I drove another 150 miles, passed three giant Halliburton factories, white walls, white tubes, white light, white steam churning into the sky, and I finally saw the lights of a sprawling town in the distance, population 5,026. Never has their been a traveler more grateful to be in Belle Fourche, South Dakota.

Especially since I've never been to South Dakota. Now all that's left is the other Dakota, and I'll have been to all of the lower 48 as well as Alaska. As for Hawaii, I've given up on that. Hawaii is where perfectly happy people go on their vacations with their perfectly lovely partners, and I'm too busy yanking the bone out of my chest to get involved with such things.

All in a (last) Week

Now I'm writing from the cabin in Whitefish, Montana. I've had no choice but to fall a little behind this week; the busy days rushed by without allowing so much as a minute for me to sit down and write them out. I don't want to fall behind. These last few weeks in Seattle were important. In fact they were very important because my best friend got married, and even the insignificant things seemed to hold more meaning because they were all for the last time.

This morning I drove away from the city with absolutely no fanfare, no waterworks or melodrama, not even a poignant song on the radio, I was too distracted by the enormous swell of relief that washed over me, a relief so strong it kept me nearly numb all the way to the Bitteroots. All the hard work is finally behind me- l culled all my belongings down to the bones and packed what was left into the new car which is much smaller than the old car, I worked my job and cleaned the apartment and in between all that, I had this week:


1. Micah and the dog at my favorite spot 2. we spent the day after her wedding on the boat 3. climbing at black stone with Brit and Steph 4. sun sickness soon followed this at-sea decision 5. I wish I could take this place with me 6. one glimpse of the sail, I actually spend most of this day in the cabin alongside the hungover groomsmen 7. game day 8. my last climb was long and run out 9. wheee! 10. my hair done by Macklemore's stylist and I'm in love with it and it was expensive. 

the goodbye party

When we went to light the fire last night, we found the fire pit filled with the ashy remnants of papers and pictures and a charred metal frame that said, "I love you."

How fitting, we remarked, someone else's dead love going up in smoke, climbing into the atmosphere and disappearing over the Puget Sound towards the Olympics, while we stood around the flames for hours after sunset, until white stars appeared overhead, and a man in a dune buggy threw a bucket of water onto the fire. 

Exactly. Exactly like that.